Carbon - Fiber

For repairing or reinforcing concrete and foundation repair, carbon fiber-reinforced polymer fabric – a specialized plastic that becomes rigid and stronger than structural steel – is greener, easier and quicker to apply, takes less-skilled labor, adds less weight to a building and is often more corrosion-resistant than traditional methods

The most common signs of foundation problems


* Diagonal cracks in interior wall finishes at the corners of doors and windows.
* Cracks at the intersection of walls and ceilings, and at the intersection of wall surfaces.
* Doors that bind or do not open or close properly.
* Windows bind or do not open or close properly.
* Un-level floors.
* Cracks in exterior brick, concrete, or masonry.
* Cracks in the concrete perimeter beam.
* Separations of wood trim at the exterior corners of your home.


Bowed Basement Walls

A Bowed Basement or Foundation Walls can occur as a result of soil loads pushing against the wall. Compounded with depth and other factors and the lateral forces surpass the foundation's original resistance to these loads. Over time, these factors can produce lateral bending and the foundation or basement wall becomes bowed. This condition also produces significant cracking. If left unattended this condition will worsen with time jeopardizing both the structural integrity and resale value of the property.


Fixing Bowed Basement and Foundation Walls

A Bowed basement or foundation wall can be straightened but require excavation of foundation, lifting the weight of the structure off of the wall and pushing the wall back to as close to plumb as possible. Even after this is accomplished, the wall itself has lost the structural integrity and requires reinforcement. You can also reinforce a concrete wall that is still within tolerance at it's current condition without straightening. Historically, I-beams were used to correct a bowed wall by erecting the beams in a fashion that provides lateral concrete reinforcement. While remaining an effective method, installation can be expensive and the end result are obtrusive beams sticking out from the wall. In addition, the cracks which have undoubtedly occurred as a result are not addressed.
Bowed basement walls can be resolved using the latest carbon-fiber technology . Using carbon-fiber kevlar sheet straps in combination with specifically designed epoxies, foundations can now be repaired and arrested with little to no obtrusiveness. The repaired bowed basement wall can then be painted thereby creating an almost invisible repair, thereby increasing the resale value of your home.

Will carbon fiber straighten a wall?

A. The simple answer is no, and most ways of straightening walls require excavation.Tie-backs may, over a period of time, straighten walls to a certain degree. Tie-backs tend to creep or loosen and may punch through and twist a masonry wall when tightened. So the required tightening of tie-backs every 6 months is adjusting the grip that can loosen. The lamination of carbon fiber will hold the wall in it's current deflection or can be applied after straightening to hold the wall in place and strengthen the foundation.


The walls move thermally with the seasons. Cracks opening in the winter and closing
in the summer. How does this affect the carbon fiber?

A. By tuck pointing all cracks at the time of carbon fiber lamination, will assure a wedge when the wall attempts to hinge. Tuck pointing material goes into compression not allowing the wall to move outward, while the laminated carbon fiber will not allow the wall to move inward.

Is the Carbon Fiber Reinforcement in the Building Code?

A. Yes. However the original ICBO codes are and have been changing based on new codes and ACI 440 Technical Guidelines. Therefore only a very few manufacturers have across the board approval. This is actually a good thing as our systems have upgraded dramatically over the last seven years, so approvals are based on outdated systems. All Fortress products are manufactured and meet ACI Guidelines as well as ASTM Standards.

How to protect your house after snow storm

So, it’s winter, and depending on where you live this can mean a few months of snow, and lots of it. If you live in the Northeast, then you are no doubt still digging yourself out from under the 18” to 32” of snow that fell over the weekend. While the current tri-state (NY/NJ/CT) forecast calls for unseasonably high temperatures (nearly 50 degrees in some places by Sunday) and that surely is a lot more pleasant than another blizzard, the huge downside of this is that all of that snow is going to start melting. There will inevitably be flooding in some areas especially since the hard ground won’t be able to quickly absorb so much moisture, and as a result, there will be water damage to homes and property.
There’s not much that could be done about the weather, but there are steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the risk of water damage due to snowmelt. Here are some quick tips from the EPA that can save you time, money and a huge headache this winter:
Ensure that downspouts carry water several feet from your house to a well-drained area. About 2,500 gallons of water will come from a 1,000 square foot roof with one foot of snow depth across the roof. This much water may cause problems if allowed to drain next to the house.
• Move snow on the ground away from the house. Water from the snow may cause a wet basement if its able to run down a basement wall. If the ground is sloped 1 inch per foot near the house, moving the snow just 3-5 feet from the house will reduce problems.
• Check and clean your sump pump. If you don’t have a sump pump, get one. Test your sump pump by pouring water into the pit. Make sure the discharge hose carries the water several feet away from the house to a well-drained area. Also make sure that the pipe is on sloped ground so it drains to prevent it from freezing.
• Remove snow from around rural yards to minimize soft, wet soil conditions. A 20-foot diameter 10-foot high pile of snow contains about 2,600 gallons of water.
• Clear out basement window wells of snow to prevent it from seeping through window frames.
• Remove snow from doors and windows to prevent water intrusion.
• Clear the areas around exhaust pipes and air vents on heaters, furnaces and dryers.
• Ensure that drains and gutters are free from dirt, debris or ice.
• Remove snow blocking roof vents.
• If you leave home for an extended time, don’t turn off the heat as this could result in frozen pipes that could burst and cause serious water damage.



And, if you find that you do have water damage in your home or basement, call us and we will schedule a free, no-commitment inspection of your home as soon as possible. Or, if you don’t have a problem yet but suspect one brewing, don’t wait until the next snowstorm leaves a flood in your basement, call us and get the problem solved now, and avoid a costly headache later. Call now 973-732-0023 or visit us at www.rikawaterproofing .
Happy Holidays!

Insulating a Crawl Space

Basement and crawl space experts typically are in agreement that sealed crawl spaces are more energy efficient; resolve moisture, mold and rot problems; and stop insect infestations. The potential for misunderstanding arises when it comes to insulating one. An uninsulated crawl space, whether conditioned or not, is often a major source for heat loss in a home.
Eliminate the moisture. It is important to install a 60 mil vapor barrier, to keep moisture out. Moisture is what causes many of the problems with crawl spaces such as rot, mold and mildew.
Don't use standard fiber glass insulation. Fiber glass insulation-especially backed insulation-is a food source for mold. If any moisture ends up in the crawl space, mold will grow and feed on the insulation.

Luckily, there are alternatives to fiberglass insulation.. One insulating product is an insulating blanket that is made of plastic on one side and aluminum on the other with either trapped air or closed cell foam between the two faces. This acts as a radiant heat shield or reflector that pushes the heat back into the home.

The radiant heat shield can be placed on the ceiling of the crawl space leaving a gap between the living space floors and the insulating blanket. Face the aluminum side up to reflect the heat that moves down into the crawl space from the living space above, back into the home. Within that gap, the rim joists around the perimeter of the home should be insulated with breathable, un-faced, formaldehyde-free, open cell foam insulation.

Make sure the insulation material is fire resistant. Check your local fire codes regarding exposed insulation. The aluminum insulating blanket mentioned above is treated with a fire retardant.

Once the crawl space is properly conditioned, you may be eligible for an insulation tax credit through 2010. Homeowners can receive a tax credit for 30% of the cost of materials up to $1500 the year they install the insulation.

Humidex

What is Humidex?

Humidex solves the century old problem of excess moisture by utilizing a controlled and target specific ventilation as opposed to a conventional dehumidifier which removes moisture particles from the air by condensation and then recirculates the same stale air back into the room. Humidex focuses in on the major source of moisture problems which is the lowest point in a house where there is the most moisture infiltration, stagnation and condensation; namely the basement and crawl space. The unit entirely expels the cool damp air out of the house and uses the warmer and fresher upstairs air to effectively lower relative humidity and dry out the structure. It creates an air exchange in the entire house that will reduce moisture related problems such as excess humidity, mold growth, mildew, and alleviate conditions that aggravate asthma and allergies.


Will it work for the entire house?
The fan is extremely powerful and quiet. The unit’s capacity is specified in terms of the square footage at the lowest level. One unit expels 280 cu. ft. of air per minute which can reduce problems in area up to 2,100 sq. ft. The actual total living area benefiting from the Humidex is greater, as a result of the air replenished and exchanged throughout the house with fresh air from outside.


How will it improve air quality and help cure Sick Home Syndrome?

The air in many homes contains harmful pollutants that are invisible, odorless and not readily detected. These substances can be more detrimental than the air outside and can cause health problems such as irritated eyes and nose, headaches, dizziness, tiredness, infections and respiratory diseases. When windows and doors are closed, the house cannot breathe and rid itself of these elements. Moisture further aggravates the condition, by having the capacity to trap and contain these contaminants. Moisture is a source of nutrition for molds, dust mites and other infestation that are primary triggers for asthma and allergic symptoms.

Humidex provides both moisture control and improved indoor air quality on a continuous basis without any maintenance or complicated controls, thereby insuring a healthy environment. By exchanging the damp polluted air several times a day, you are transforming the home into a fresher, drier and healthier environment.


Where and how is it installed?


Humidex is installed professionally, as per company specifications, to maximize ventilation and moisture control. It requires a dedicated 6" vent to the outside and is located in the lowest part of the home, in an area where it will be able to draw in the most moisture and create a strong airflow over the maximum surface area. The installer will place a passive air register in the floor or door upstairs (when there is no open stairwell), to allow for a fresh, drier and warmer replenishment air to enter the basement while the Humidex is expelling the moist air. Additional passive vents at the floor level in doors or partitions may be required to facilitate the air flow freely throughout the entire level. The proper installation is crucial in order to dry out the structure and prevent moisture from stagnating, condensing and saturating the structure.


How quickly should I expect to see results?


The Humidex ventilation solution is a drying out process that will vary in time depending on home environment and conditions. The majority of homeowners will see results relatively quickly ranging from within a few days to a few short weeks. In extreme conditions and when there may be heavy moisture saturation in the structure, we recommend that you allow the unit to dry out the basement, for as long as it takes. For the home environment to improve, contributing sources of moisture from water seepage should be remedied first in order to allow for the basement to dry out. After remedying the water problems and installing the Humidex you should start to see improvement, although again, each home situation is different.

What model do I need?


The unit that you get obviously depends on the type of home that you occupy and the size of the room that the unit will be placed in. Please take a look at the specific model pages to help better determine which unit is right for your living conditions.
- Basement Models
- Crawl Space Models
- Slab Homes/Condo/Apartment Models



How does the unit affect airflow?


The majority of homes are not airtight. There is enough air flowing from the doors, windows and openings. Air pressure and flow can be affected by any combustible appliance (i.e. furnace, gas dryer) or ventilation unit (i.e. bathroom fan, attic fan). We therefore recommend that the Humidex be installed at least 10 ft. away from any furnace in order not to interfere with the air flow. In an extreme airtight situation and in conjunction with other high capacity ventilation and combustion appliances, we have a passive fresh air ventilator kit ASV 90-4. It requires a 4" outlet that delivers filtered air to a room and is equipped with a manual damper.



How does it work in the summer and winter?


In the summer, when there is no air conditioning in the upper levels, the warmer air flows downstairs raising the temperature, which lowers the relative humidity and raises the dew point (resulting in less condensation). When there is air conditioning upstairs, the natural dehumidifying properties of the conditioned air comes down and lowers the relative humidity. The downstairs is drier, warmer and without the odors.

In the winter heating season, water will condense on windows and walls because the moisture inside hits a cold surface. After the Humidex is operational, the moisture upstairs, flows downwards and the windows dry up. The unit raises the temperature downstairs and draws out saturated moisture in the structure. The drier air is easier to heat than the heavy moist air, thereby saving money in heating bills. Also, heat loss is minimal because cold air is always at the floor level. In the winter the unit will generally operate at a lower speed due to the fact that heat evaporates indoor moisture.

What about energy factors - expelling air conditioned air in the summer or heated air in the winter?


If you have moisture problems, your top priority is to expel it. Conventional dehumidifiers just won't do it. In the summer, if the air conditioning is working upstairs; the drier replacement air that comes from upstairs, accomplishes the goal of a dehumidified basement even faster. If the air conditioning is not working, then the air coming from the upstairs is warmer than downstairs, and will then raise the dew point and reduce the condensation. There is a negligible increase in utility costs when running the air conditioning, especially when you spread the cost over a full year. In the winter, the moist air is expelled and the warmer air replacing it is drier and a lot easier and less expensive to heat. Humidex only uses 40 watts of electricity- similar to a light bulb! The pay back is less than two years, just in the savings from reduced electricity costs, in comparison to a dehumidifier. Overall it is less costly to heat or air condition a drier home than a damp one.

Call Now for a free inspection no Obligation at 973-732-0023 Act Now – Don’t be left behind!